Treadmill parts, treadmill repairs, tread mill brands, peak duty, aluminum frame, welded frame, steel frame, VFX, Flexdeck, EKG pulse sensor, heart rate monitor, heart rate control...
Is your head spinning yet?
If you've ever thought about buying a tread mill, you've probably been bombarded with tons of treadmill jargon.
It can get confusing, especially as treadmill brands multiply and new models are introduced every year.
To make things simpler for you, we've broken down the lingo and simplified the major areas you need to look at when purchasing a tread mill.
Motor:
The treadmill motor is one of the most important areas to look at when purchasing a tread mill as it is one of the most expensive parts to fix.
Motor power is measured by Horsepower or HP. The higher the power, the less chance the treadmill will burn out on you (so the higher power the better).
Most treadmills on the market today range from 1.5 HP to 3.0 HP.
If you plan to be using the tread mill frequently, for long intervals or for running, it's advisable to stick with a motor power of at least 2.5 HP.
Examples:
Motor powers are also described by treadmill dealers as "continuous duty" or "peak duty".
Continous duty means the HP rating for steady, continual 24 hour motor usage whereas peak duty is the maximum HP potential of the motor. This maximum power however cannot be maintained.
Obviously you want to know the continous duty power rating, NOT the peak duty. (All of the treadmills we've compared on this site, to the best of our knowledge, list the continuous duty power rating).
Some treadmill sellers will try to inflate the power ratings by telling you the peak duty of the treadmill, not the continuous duty. However if you go with a highly rated treadmill brand, you probably won't come up against this problem.
Frame:
Treadmill frames can either be made of aluminum or steel (never plastic!).
Steel is heavier which potentially increases stability however it is also susceptible to rust and corrosion (i.e. from sweat, water bottles, etc.). Aluminum is more expensive and doesn't rust.
So each has it's advantages and disadvantages - it depends on the buyer's preferences.
Examples:
In addition, treadmills frames can either be bolted or welded. Welded frames are better however, again, it doesn't matter too much because most quality treadmills come with a lifetime frame warranty and most treadmill manufacturers will tell you that they rarely have to fix a treadmill frame (it's more likely the motor).
Belt:
One of the most important features about the belt is the size. Average belt widths range from 17" to 22" and lengths from 51" to 61".
When looking at belt widths, as a general rule, never go below a width of 16 ".
When considering length, make sure the belt is long enough to accomodate your stride. For example 51-54" may work for the average person, but if you are tall and/or have long legs, you'll want to go at least 56" or higher (this may cost a bit more, but at least you won't be slipping off your treadmill!).
Stability:
Stability is the smoothness of the treadmill ride. A stable treadmill will not shake, wobble or shimmy when you pick up your pace.
According to Runner's World, stability is the most important quality in a treadmill. You don't want to buy something that you're scared to run on!
In general, you get what you pay for. If you try to cut corners and go with the $400 department store treadmill, don't expect it to be too stable. On the other hand, you could invest $2000-4000 on a commercial grade treadmill and run till the cows come home without a problem (but we don't all have that kind of money!).
If you're looking for a happy medium, try a $1000-2000 treadmill with a quality brand name.
Warranty:
The warranty should be included in the treadmill price (you shouldn't have to pay extra for it - unless you really want to!), It will cover different treadmill components for different time lengths.
A quality treadmill warranty will include 10 years or more on the frame, 2 years or more on the motor and parts and preferably 1 year on the labour.
(Remember that the motor is the most costly item to repair so a long motor warranty is ideal.)
There are some great names out there that offer excellent warranties. We've listed them below as examples.
Examples:
Smooth Treadmills: Lifetime frame warranty, 10 year motor warranty, 2 year parts and 1 year in-home labor, on most of their treadmills.
Sole Treadmills: Lifetime frame and deck warranty, 30 year motor warranty, 5 years on parts and 1 year on labor
Cushioning:
Provided that you invest in a quality brand name treadmill, you'll likely get a treadmill with adequate cushioning. Most high quality treadmills have their own patented cushioning system which will protect your joints and ligaments.
Again however, you get what you pay for with cushioning. If you go with the $500 department store brand, chances are pretty high that you'll hurt yourself with heavy use of that tread mill.
Console:
This area that is fairly subjective. Do you want a treadmill that displays calories burned, miles per hour, speed, incline? Do you want a treadmill with lots of built in user programs or one that is iFit compatible?
This is largely the fun part of choosing a treadmill and largely up to the buyer's preference.
Heart Rate Control/Monitor:
Different treadmills usually offer different heart rate controls or heart rate monitors. This again, isn't nearly so important as the above issues and it depends on what you want. A heart rate monitor just records your heart rate and gives you feedback in some way.
A heart rate control, on the other hand, adjusts the treadmill to your target heart rate.
That's It!
We hope that helps simplify things when you're looking at tread mills.
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